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Lian Slayford is a research archaeologist and travel writer. For many years she has been lucky enough to explore the world, although this is postponed for the moment as she is expecting her first baby due in May 2011.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Travel Destinations: Jeollabuk-do, South Korea


A trip to the south-western province of Jeollabuk-do is a great place for the traveller to explore. Known as the rice bowl of Korea, Jeollabuk-do conjures up images of unspoilt land and white egrets in terraced rice fields. In the more mountainous areas, there are sprawling national parks and hiking trails. In addition to this, Buddhist temples from every era scatter across the land, still home to the shaven-headed monks who practice Zen meditation.

Jeollabuk-do is famous for the Donghak rebellion, which was led by Chon Pongjun in 1893. This rebellion was mainly made up of peasants and slaves but who went on to seize Jeonju fortress and defeat King Gojong’s army. They demanded that the slaves be freed, the low born (chonmin) were to be treated better, the distribution of the land, punishment of corrupt officials and the abolition of taxes on salt and fish.

Jeonju is the first city travellers should go to as it is a good base to explore the rest of this beautiful province. Famous for being the birthplace of the Joseon dynasty and bibimbap (a dish comprising of rice, meat, egg, vegetables and a hot sauce), it is home to some of the most amazing hanok buildings.

There are many attractions to visit here. Take a trip to Jeonju Hanock Village – an urban historical village which can take all day to get around.

Try the Traditional Wine Museum. This museum is set in a beautiful old hanok where you can learn how to make your own soju, strong Korean liquor, and taste and buy other traditional drinks.

Kkotsuki Gongbang is a workshop where you can learn how to make traditional Korean paper dolls.

If you go to Deokjin Park, you can join Korean couples as they hire paddleboats to view lotus lilies. The best time to do this in July when the lotus lilies are at their very best.

Geumsansa and Moaksan Provincial Park is about 40 minutes away from Jeongju and a great location for hikers. The highlight of this attraction is Geumsansa, a temple dating to 599 CE. You can even stay here and will cost around W40,000 including meals. The Maitreya Hall was built in 1635 and conjures up the images of past eras. Inside the hall is a huge painting of the Mireuksa Buddha, the Buddha of the Future.

The main hiking route here runs past the temple, up Janggundae and then alongside the ridge. This will take you straight up to the peak. The trail is relatively easy and the entire hike is generally completed in around three hours.

To get here, take the 79 bus. This can be caught from Girinno, the main street in Jeonju. It is best to ask for Geumsansa.

Daedunsan Provincial Park is another magnificent park. It offers views of weather-beaten peaks, and although small, one of Korea’s fabulous mountainous locations.

If you are looking for a more challenging hiking trial, the climb to the peak will leave your heart pounding. It includes crossing a 50m long cable bridge, stretching between two rock pinnacles. You then climb a steep steel-cabled stairway. If this sounds too precarious for you, you can always take the cable car which will save you an hour of hiking!

Tired of parks? Take a trip to Gunsan, a major port and industrial city. This is the place to catch a ferry to Seonyudo, Eocheongdo or to China.

Seonyudo is a 43km ferry ride away from Gunsan and is a popular destination for those waiting to relax. The views here are indescribable in their beauty. To get the best out of the island, hire a bicycle to view the many fishing villages and the three islands linked by bridges.

The 1.6km beach is a good hotspot to head for, with its soft, golden sand with spectacular views. For those more adventurous, climb up the rocky Mangjubong to experience the views from the top of the many islands scattered about.

Jeollabuk-do is mostly known for its beautiful provincial parks and spectacular scenery – however, there are more enough Buddhist temples and towns and cities for those wanting to explore the more cultural side of this amazing province.

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