About Me

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Lian Slayford is a research archaeologist and travel writer. For many years she has been lucky enough to explore the world, although this is postponed for the moment as she is expecting her first baby due in May 2011.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

A History of the Tujia People in China



China is a unified country made up of some 56 officially recognised ethnic groups giving its identity a unique flavour. Each ethnic group has its own history, culture, language and distinctiveness, despite the Han Chinese majority’s influence on the smaller minorities.

The Tujia are found mostly in the Wuling Ranges of western Hunan and Hubei provinces, the majority of them live in the Xiangxi Tujia-Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Exi Tujia-Miao Autonomous Prefecture and some counties in southeastern Hunan and western Hubei. In 1990, the national census recorded a population of 5.71 million.

The Tujia people call themselves the Bizika which means ‘native dwellers’. Like with the other ethnic groups in China, they have their own language which belongs to the Tibeto-Burman group of the Chinese-Tibetan language family but no written language. For writing they uses standardize Chinese characters.

Despite official literature on ethnic minorities to the contrary, the Tujia have been very sinicized with the Han for some time. “In the early twentieth century, they already shared language (Southwest Mandarin), marriage practices, and foot-binding with Han elsewhere in China. They also shared aspects of ancestor worship, funerary rites, and patrilineal inheritance, although there remained striking differences in these latter practices between locals in the Enshi area and most Han elsewhere in China”.

One famous Tujia author, Shen Congwen, claimed that the Tujia people were descended from the State of Chou, a designation that conferred ethnic majority (Han or Hua) status. However, scholars agree that the Tujia people were actually descendants of soldiers, farmers, laborers, and exiled convicts (tu) forced to migrate there over two millennia ago. These people were, in fact, considered to be Han Chinese.

It was not until the Ba people, the earliest immigrants from eastern Sichuan, flocked to this area that the Tujia ethnicity came into being. Indeed, one scholar studying the Tujia people was told by one Tujia individual that “The Tujia are old Han immigrants; the Han are recent Han immigrants”.

Another scholar says that “the Tujia had originated as Turen in the chiefdoms and had a history of providing military assistance to the Qing. With the abolition of the tusi system [chiefdoms that were abolished in the 1730’s], the Turen emerged as allies of Han settlers and may have absorbed both long-established Han settlers and acculturating Miao as their influence grew in the Miao region”.

Experts have stated that it was probably due to the absence of Confucian practices and beliefs relating to filial piety that designated them as non-Han. However, the origins of the Tujia are still in doubt according to scholars.

In the 1950’s the government tried to list the Tujia as Miao since there were Miao living in the area, which they strongly protested about. They were only separated into two ethnic groups when it was shown that there was no common language between the Tujia and the Miao. However, it was not until 1957 that they were recognised as a separate ethnic group and in the 1980’s a lineage was classed as Tujia (in the Enshi region) if a remote ancestor immigrated into the prefecture before 1735.

Bibliography:

Brown, Melissa (2002) Local Government Agency: Manipulating Tujia Identity, Modern China, Sage Publications.

Sutton, Donald s. (2000) Myth Making on an Ethnic Frontier: The Cult of the Heavenly Kings of West Hunan 1715-1996, Modern China, Sage Publications.

Travel Destinations: Dehang, Hunan Province, China

Set in a gorgeous riverine setting, overlooked by towering peaks that conjure up images of mythologized China, Dehang in Hunan Province is a beautiful Miao hamlet offers the weary traveller some incredibly beautiful views and the chance to rest a weary soul. Clear streams, verdant valleys and stone peaks rising to the sky like columns will bring peace and tranquillity.

Dehang is home to a large community of Miao, one of the officially 56 ethnic groups in China. The village has been adapted to welcome the droves of tourists who flock to Dehang each year. However, you can still experience that real minority village sensation, complete with wood constructed buildings and the cool streams running by.

There are shows staged in Dehang Miaozhai in the evenings, but try to avoid this as it is unauthentic and often crowded by tourists. If you avoid the showy touristy places, you can see the authentic Miao life – the people wearing their traditional blue clothing, holding onto bamboo baskets and weavers creating wonderfully colourful cloth for cotton jackets before your eyes.

There are some wonderful walks to be had here. Dehang is situated in a massive 164 sq km geological park with pleasant trails that wind into the hills. Early morning or late afternoon is the perfect times for walks here, especially when the tourist levels are much lower.

The Nine Dragon Stream Scenic Area (Jiulongxi Jingqu) is a beautiful area where travellers can rest their weary souls and tired feet. It can be found winding past a stream just outside the village; go over the wooden bridge, where the Miao peasants work in the terraced fields.

The Nine Dragon Waterfall is another pleasant place to relax. Carry on up this trail where you will come to the magnificent Liusha Waterfall (Liushu Pubu). Sprays of clear water splash onto rocks above a green pool at the base. The best time to visit the waterfall is after it has rained, for the views are truly amazing through the curtain s of water.

Other noteworthy places to visit are is the 2.6km long Yuqanxi Scenic Area (Yuquanxi Jingqu), set in a lovely valley. To get to here, follow the Yuquan Stream, go past the haystacks and the beautiful terraced fields. Carry on walking for 1.5km and cross the Jade Fountain Gate (Yuquan Men) and carry onup the path to the waterfall. For those who have lots of energy, climb up the stairs to visit the Tianwen Platform where you will be rewarded with the most amazing views of the gorge above the waterfall and some traditional Miao homes.

Travellers can reach Dehang by travelling to Jishou by train, then catching a bus to Dehang. The bus ride will only take about 50 minutes, and can be caught from the train station every 20 minutes.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Travel Destinations: Lushan, Jiangxia Province, China



Lushan is a beautiful mountain range in Jiangxi Province. It will cost a whopping Y135 to get in, almost as high as its peaks, but the incredibly beautiful mountainous views and the stunning European style architecture to be found here makes it all worthwhile.

Lushan, like other mountains, has been the source of inspiration for all types of artists throughout the centuries – poets, painters, writers – and has served as the backdrop of turbulent political events in Chinese communist history.



During the late 19th century, Westerns came to Lushan (known as Kuling to Westerners) as a summer retreat. They fashioned Guling village in the shape of a typical English village and the quaint little stone cottages and villages are still there today.

In 1959, the Central Committee of the Communist Party held the critical meeting here which led to the dismissal of Peng Dehuai and sent Mao into political wastelands.

In the summer, Lushan welcomes flocks of travellers, both Chinese and foreign, who come here to seek refuge from the scorching heat. In the winter, the rising mountain mists shrouds the area to make it look like something out of a beautiful fairytale.

So what is there to see and do on Lushan? There are a whole range of cultural attractions on the mountain, and the many mountain roads and trails can be explored.

The Lushan Museum (Lushan Bowuguan) was once the former residence of Chairman Mao. Today, it houses some interesting artefacts from Lushan’s communist links.



Meilu Villa (Meilu Beishu) was built in the 1930s by Chiang Sai-shek. It is always crowded with visitors but still a good place to visit. You will find it by taking a short walk down the hill from Guling.

Visiting Lushan wouldn’t be complete without seeing the Site of the Lushan Conference, which is the venue for the Chinese Communist Party’s historical conference.

If you are looking for natural and more historical sites, then Lushan has plenty on offer. The north-western rim on the mountain offers some of the most spectacular views across Jiangxi’s plains. Take care walking around these precarious slopes and see the Immortal’s Cave (Xianren Dong), then continue onwards to Dragon Head Cliff (Longshou Ya). This is a natural rock platform which tilts above a breath-taking vertical drop.



Not far from Lulin Lake, sits the sober Three Ancient Trees (Sanbaoshu). These trees, a gingko and two cedar trees, are unbelievably old – they were planted by Buddhist monks five centuries ago.

Visit the Botanical Gardens (Zhiwu Yuan) are another great place to visit. These gardens house some lovely subalpine tropical plants that thrive on Lushan in the cooler highland climate. When the camellias, conifers and rhododendrons are in bloom, the area looks incredibly beautiful.

Many travellers come here from either Nancheng or Jiujiang. Regular buses depart from Nanchang, taking around an hour and half. Buses from Jiujiang depart from the long-distance bus station which also connects with Nancheng.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Travel Destinations: Agra, India

Agra, the capital of India during the reign of the Mughals, still retains that impressive splendour from past ages, especially with the fact that she is the home of the magnificent Taj Mahal. Agra is also known as part of the Golden Triangle, along with New Delhi and Jaipur, India’s most popular tourist region.

There is not much known of Agra before the Muslim era; one of the earliest chronicles describes it as a flourishing city situated at the crossroads between the north and centre of India with a robust fort in a chain of hills.

It wasn’t until 1504 that Agra emerged from a minor administrative centre to a capital when the Sultan of Delhi, Sikandar Lodi moved it here so that he could keep an eye out on the warring factions in his empire. You can still see the ruins of the impressive capital, making visitors reflect on the history and grandeur the city once had.



There are a number of great attractions to visit here. The Taj Mahal is the first port of call for anyone travelling here. The Bengali poet Rabindranath Tagore once described it as “a teardrop on the face of eternity”, and for good reason. The Taj Muhal is the epitome of Mughal architecture, one of the most awe-inspiring buildings that have ever been created by man.

It stands as a testament to the love that the emperor Shah Jahan felt for his favourite wife, Arjumand Bann Begum (better known for her official palace title of Mumtaz Mahal, which means ‘Chosen One of the Palace’). It overlooks the Yamuna and is able to make any person stop still and just gaze in wonder at its brilliance.

Devastated by the loss of his wife during childbirth of their 14th child, Shah Jahan had the Taj Muhal created in her honour. It took over 20,000 men and more than 20 years to construct it. Marble was imported from Makrana, and semi-precious gems from all over Persia, Russia, Afghanistan, Tibet, China and the Indian Ocean. It was finally finished in 1653 and both Shah Jahan and his beloved wife were entombed here.



There is much more to Agra than just the Taj Mahal. Why not visit the Agra Fort. It dominates a bend in the Yanuma River about 2km north of the city and the red-sandstone fort looks as though it is on fire at sunset and sunrise. It was constructed between 1565 and 1573 in a half moon shape on the earlier foundations of Rajput fortifications. It became the stronghold for the Mughal empire right until the rulers fell and is still a testament to the power and strength they once held in their grasp.

It reaches over 20 meters in height and stetches out for about 2.5km with a series of impressive gates. The only one available to tourists to visit is the Amar Singh Pol but the most impressive one was Hathi Pol, otherwise known as ‘Elephant Gate’.



Another great place to visit is the Chini-ka-rauza, the mausoleum of the Persian poet, Afzal Khan. It was built during 1628 and 1639 and is the only Persian designed building in Agra, as the poet was purely Persian. He became one of Shah Jahan’s ministers and was awarded a tomb of his own when he died.

Agra is much more than the Taj Mahal; it is a place where visitors can shop until their hearts’, or wallets, drops, view the magnificent architecture and visit wonderful cultural attractions. It is a place where you can feel the magic and the grandeur of the past come alive once more.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Travel Destinations: Dali, China



When you visit the wonderful town of Dali you will be met with the question – Dali or Lijiang? Whether you are on a bus, in a temple, at the market or checking into your hotel, you will be asked this time and time again.

Situated between Erhai Lake and majestic mountains, Dali is a great place for tourists. Lijiang’s old town has beauty and character and offers a great respite from the crowds. Although not a place most travellers would go to, Dali is a great town if you want to explore central Yunnan province and interact with the Bai ethnic group who live here.

Dali was the centre of operations for five centuries when Yunnan ruled itself. The Bai people are main ethnic group in the region, numbering about 1.5 million. It is believed that they have lived in this area for about 3,000 years and in the 8th century they established the Nanzhao kingdom after defeating the Tang imperial army.

This kingdom had much influence throughout the southern part of China and even other parts of Southeast Asia, controlling parts of Burma during the 9th century. However, during the 13th century the Nanzhao kingdom fell to the Mongols under Kublai Khan.



There are some wonderful sights to visit in Dali. The first cultural attraction on your list should be the Three Pagodas, one of the oldest sights in southwest China. Qianxun Pagoda is the tallest, with 16 tiers that stetch to 70m. It was first created in the mid-9th century by workers from Xi’an. On either side, it is flanked by two smaller pagodas that are 10 storeys high.

Although you cannot enter the pagodas, you can still visit the Chongsheng Temple located behind them. In the traditional Yunnanese fashion, the temple is laid out in three layers of buildings that line up perfectly with the sacred peak behind them. The temple has been restored and now has a museum where you can learn all about its history and the three pagodas.

The Dali Museum (Dali Shi Bowuguan) is another interesting place to visit. Here, you can view some remarkable archaeological artefacts that show the history and cultural of the Bai people and a number of beautiful marble stelae.



The best time to come to Dali is during the Third Moon Fair (Sanyue Jie) which commences on the 15th day of the third lunar month (generally April in western calendars) until the 21st. This festival holds its roots in an ancient legend where the Buddhist goddess of mercy, Guangyin, visited the Nanzhao kingdom. People from all over Yunnan visit Dali on these days to drink, shop, sell and celebrate.

One of the main attractions in Dali is a visit to the Erhai Hu (Ear-Shaped Lake) which is the seventh largest lake in China. Sitting 1973m above sea level, this is a great place for hikers or bicycle riders who want to explore traditional little villages and temples which are scattered all around the lake. You can also catch a boat which will take you across the water.



If you are a shopper, then you will not be disappointed. There are several markets in and around Dali that will make your heart flutter. The markets used to follow the lunar month but have now made a regular scheme so that tourists can shop here at least once a week.

Dali is a wonderful place to visit. If you want to explore natural beauty, cultural attractions, ancient temples and get to know one of the many different ethnic groups in China, than Dali is the place for you.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Travel Destinations: Agathonisi, Greece



With its long history, culture, brilliant sunshine and dozens of islands, it is little wonder why Greece is so popular throughout the world for holidays. The high numbers of islands that Greece is home to means that travellers have so much to explore that they simply cannot do it in a few short weeks, and so they come back time and time again.

With so many islands, it is not surprising that many do not instantly recognise Agathonisi or which group of islands it belongs to. It is an island that only the serious – or luckiest – of island-hoppers will chance upon. Agathonisi is located in the Dodecanese and is that hidden little gem we all wish to get away on. Dry, rocky and extraordinarily pretty, Agathonisi is the island to relax and reflect on.



You can reach Agathonisi by way of ferry from Samos, which will take about an hour, or from Patmos, about two hours. These ferries will come here about four days a week. Please be aware that there is no ATM, bank, post office, tourist information office or internet access here, so be aware!

One thing you will notice as soon as you dock is that there is no local transport. You will have to walk the 1.5km distance between Agios Giorgios to the main town Megalo Horio. Agios Giorgios is a small pretty village which seems protected by a fjord-like bay. The village has a 100 meter long pebbled beach where you can swim, although Spilia Beach (900m south-west) is much quieter. You can walk these by a track from around the far side of the bay. You can also visit Gaidouravlakos 1km from here, which is a small bay where the spring meets the sea.



There are a few lovely attractions to visit on Agathonisi. You can visit Megalo Horio, the only decent sized village on the island. Most of the year it looks like a tradition, sleeply little village but during religious festivals the entire village seems to wake up. The best time to visit here is during the festivals Agiou Panteleimonos (26th July), Sotiros (6th August) and Panagias (22nd August).

If you like quiet fishing villages then you can visit the small harbour of Katholiko where you can see the inhabited and unapproachable islet of Neronisi. There are also some lovely beaches on the east of the island including Poros Beach, Tholos Beach and Tsangari Beach.



If you are looking an island where you can relax, get away from the tourists and have amazing scenery, then Agathonisi is the island for you.

Monday, January 17, 2011

Travel Destinations: Baotou, Inner Mongolia, China



Baotou is the biggest city in Inner Mongolia, one of the largest provinces in China. Not only this, but it is one of the drabbest cities in the province, being a dreary industrial city. There may not be much to see and do in this particular city, but most people travel here as a gateway and transit point to Mongolia and other cities in the province.

Baotou is around 20km in size and is separated into east and west. Most travellers will opt to stay in the eastern area called Donghe despite the western districts, named Kundulun and Qingshan, having more and better services.




Although Baotou itself doesn’t have much in the way of interesting and cultural attractions, there are a few things to see just outside of the city. Start with a trip to Resonant Sand Gorge (Xiangshawan). It seems to be a cross with Inner Mongolian grasslands with the Sahara Desert.



The impressive gorge is part of the Kubuqi desert, complete with dramatic sand dune reaching a height of 110m. You can come here for a day trip from Baotou and experience camel rides and an exciting sand slide, as well as appreciating the beauty of this remarkable desert. The admission fee includes a wonderful cable car ride to and from the entrance, Inner Mongolia’s oldest cable car.

If coming here, it is advisable that you bring plenty of bottled water, sunscreen, sunglasses and cover-ups if you burn easily. Your feet and legs will also need protecting and you can rent some funny looking red booties here to protect you.

The gorge is located about 60km south of Baotou; there are regular buses to here departing from the city’s long distance bus station. The bus will drop you off at Daqi, the nearest town to the gorge, and then you have to hire a taxi to take you directly to the gorge. Alternatively, you can hire a taxi from Baotou but this will set you back Y300.



Wudang Lamasery (Wudang Zhao) was once one of the largest of its king in Inner Mongolia. It was built in 1749, being the home of more than 1200 Tibetan Buddhist monks who belonged to the Gelugpa sect. Come here to admire some beautiful Qing Dynasty murals in the main prayer hall. You can also admire the amazingly beautiful scenery here as well.

You can get to the monastery by catching an air-conditioned bus from outside East Baotou’s long distance bus station which will take you directly to the monastery.