About Me

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Lian Slayford is a research archaeologist and travel writer. For many years she has been lucky enough to explore the world, although this is postponed for the moment as she is expecting her first baby due in May 2011.

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Travel Destinations: Putuoshan, China


Just south of Shanghai, you will find one of the most beautiful spots in Zhejiang Province. Putuoshan is part of the Zhoushan Archipelago and the most incredibly beautiful island you could imagine. It is one of the four sacred Buddhist mountains in China. Putuoshan is the China that we all dream about – the misty waters, the hazy mountain tops, divine temples, pagodas and graceful arches.

Putuoshan is also home to some of the finest beaches, and with its wonderfully fresh air, it is the perfect island destination. On the weekends it gets extremely busy, so the best time to go is during the middle of the week.

Guanyin, the Buddhist goddess of Mercy, is the most popular deity on the island and you will find her image everywhere you go. There is a beautiful 33 meter tall golden statue of the goddess which overlooks the waves on the southernmost tip of the island. As you sail towards the island, it will be the very first thing you will see.

There are some wonderful temples and shrines to visit on Putuoshan. Puji Temple (Puji Chansi) is situated in the centre of the main square of the village. It is not sure when it first erected but it has been around from at least the 17th century.

On the highest point of the island is Foding Mountain where you will find Huiji Temple. A cable car will take you up the side of the mountain (at a cost of Y70) and there are stone steps which will lead you down to Fayu Temple. This is an incredibly beautiful location, the temple being surrounded by sumptuous camphor trees. After a long day of walking, you can relax at the nearby Xiangyun Pavilion.

There are two beautiful beaches to visit when coming to the island. These are One Hundred Step Beach (Baibusha) and One Thousand Step Beach (Qianbusha), both located on the eastern side of Putuoshan. You will have to pay to come here (Y15) but the beaches are well worth it.

Fanyin Cave (Fanyin Dong), on the top of the eastern side of the island, has a beautiful temple dedicated to the goddess of mercy. It is nestled between two cliffs, with the waves crashing below.

It is said that the sounds of the crashing waves in Chaoyang Cave (Chaoyang Dong) mimics the Buddha’s chanting. You can also visit Shancai Cave, Gufo Cave, Xianren Cave and Xitian Cave, all wonderful natural beauty locations.

As Putuoshan is an island you will need to catch a ferry here. You can get one from either Shanghai or Ningbo, but the latter is recommended. The ride takes about two and a half hours and costs around Y60. When you arrive you will have to pay a Y110 entrance fee onto the island, but once you step foot on Putuoshan you will agree that it is well worth the cost.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Travel Destinations: The Hexi Corridor, Gansu Province, China

The Hexi Corridor is a thin region of land in Gansu Province with the Qilian Shan mountain ranges to the south and the Mazong and Longshou ranges to the north. It was this region that was the only way in and out of the Middle Kingdom. As such, there are so many reasons why to visit this part of China.

ZHANGYE:

With a population of 98,000 people, this delightful town is a pleasant way of spending a few days. The main reason to come here is to visit the country’s largest sleeping Buddha as well as to get in some hiking and see the scenery in the Qilian Shan ranges. The Great Buddha Temple is a beautiful place to visit; it was originally constructed during the Western Xia kingdom with a 35m long sleeping Buddha nestled inside.

MATI SI:

Mati Si is a series of Chinese and Tibetan Buddhist grottos nestled away in the icy Qilian Shan range. There are dozens of good hiking trails here, including ones that will take you to the Linsong Waterfall and then past Sword Split Stone. But for the most incredible panoramic views, take the trail up to Sanshisantian Shiku.

JIAYUGUAN:

With a population of 131,000 people, this town as a long history as an important town on the Silk Road. During the Ming Dynasty when the fort was constructed, this town became known as the Mouth of China, whilst the Hexi Corridor was called the Throat. Even today, the locals still see this town as the symbolic end of the Great Wall. This was the place where Imperial China believed that nowhere began.

Jiayuguan Fort is a good reason to stop here for a few days. This was where criminals and exiles were sent – the end of the civilised world. The Overhanging Great Wall is a good place to explore one of the furthest sections of the Great Wall of China.

In addition, take the time to explore the Wei Jin Tombs, where thousands of tombs dating from the Wei and Western Jin Dynasties are found. The July 1st Glacier cannot be overlooked; set up high in the Qilian Shan ranges, come prepared for cold weather.

DUNHUANG:

If you only have time for one place in Gansu, Dunhuang should be it. This is an oasis in the harsh desert landscape, home to the famous Mogao Caves. These caves hold within them the world’s greatest repositories of Buddhist art, as well as the earliest in China. Wealthy traders would commission new caves and artworks to give thanks for safe passage along the Silk Road.

You can also see the incredible, Northern Wei, Western Wei and Northern Zhou Caves, the Tang caves, the Sui Caves and the Post-Tang Caves; all of these are incredible locations not to be missed.

The Hexi Corridor is a great part of China to visit; as part of the Silk Road, it has a long and vibrant history which should not be overlooked by the glittering lights of Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing and other such cities in this extraordinary country.

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Travel Destinations: Tunxi, China


The wonderful city of Tunxi in Anhui Province is situated about 70km southeast of Huang Shan. With a population of 1.5 million, Tunxi was an old trading town and is now used as a base for exploring the surrounding area and Huizhou architecture at Yixian and Shexian.

There are some wonderful sights to see in Tunxi. Why not start your trip by visiting the Chengshi Sanzhai, one of Tunxi’s heritage buildings. This is a beautiful example of Ming dynasty Huizhou residential architecture, elegant and ornate.

If you are a shopper, there is a a wonderful street named Lao Jie whih is lined with wooden shops and buildings designed in the Huizhou style which stay open until late, so you can shop away for as long as you want. On this same street, the Wancuilou Museum (Wancuilou Bowuguan) gives you a chance to learn all about the Huizhou architectural style complete with furniture and antiquities you can gaze upon.

There are two historic villages that are often visited from Tunxi. These are both World Heritage Sites and foreigners will need to purchase a visitors permit. Also be aware that international travellers are not generally permitted to stay overnight at either one of these villages.

The first village is called Xidi and dates back to 1047 CE. For centuries, Xidi was a stronghold for the Hu clan, who were descended from the eldest son of the last Tang dynasty emperor who fled here before the dynasty fell.

Despite the droves of tourists who flock here each year, the village has still managed to remain true to itself. There are winding, tapered lanes, cream coloured walls and intricately carved lintels on the doors. The village is still lived in by locals and you can see households go by their daily lives and hear the children singing in school.

There are some magnificent historical buildings; the Huwenguang Paifang is the elaborate arch that stretches across the entrance to the village, a beautiful testament to its former status. You can view the wonderful Diji Hall, Zhuimu Hall and Dafudi as well.

Hongcun is the second historic village. Built during the southern Song dynasty by the Wang clan to resemble an ox, it lies 11km northeast of Yixian. It is just as pretty and charming as Yixian with the crescent-shaped Moon Pool at its heart.

There are some beautiful buildings here in Hongcun. Chengzhi Hall dates to 1855 with some beautiful intricately wood carvings here. Other great buildings to visit here is Deyi Hall, the Hall of the Peach Garden and the South Lake Academy. In addition to this, there is a little market where you can buy bamboo carvings and tea in a charming square.

Friday, December 16, 2011

Travel Destinations: Skiathos, Greece


Greece is an ever-increasing tourist destination for people all around the world – with her long history, her wonderful culture and passionately friendly people, Greece is one of the most popular places to go on holiday. With the amount of islands she boasts, it can be somewhat difficult to choose an island for your holiday!

The pine-fringed island of Skiathos is a beautiful place to start your trip to Greece. She is famous for her exquisite beaches, all of which are popular during the summer months when people flock to them. Despite the high numbers of summer tourists, Skiathos remains one of Greece’s leading resort destinations.

Skiathos has a small airport on the northeast side of the island and there is a daily plane to here from Athens. You can also catch a ferry to here during the summer months and you can also sail off to other islands as well.

On the island, there are a good number of reliable busses and taxis. Catching a water taxi is a great way to explore the island and you can also hire cars and motorbikes if you want to be a little more independent.

Skiathos boasts some fabulous attractions to visit. Take a trip to Skiathos Town first, with its red-roofed and white-washed houses that glisten during the sun. The town is built on two low hills and has everything that the holiday maker could wish for – shops, galleries, taverns, bars and restaurants.

Skiathos Town was the birthplace of the famous 19tyh century novelist, Alexandros Papadiamantis and his home has now been turned into a museum you can visit. It is a fascinating insight into the man who was able to portray the hard lives of the people he grew up with.

You can also catch an excursion boat around the island, either half or full days. You can choose from boats taking you scuba diving, visiting other nearby islands or exploring Skiathos itself.

With 65 beaches, Skiathos is a sun-bather’s heaven on earth. You can chose from any of these beaches, the most popular ones being Megali Amos, Vromolimnos Beach, Kolios Beach and Troulos Beach.

If you love cultural attractions, Skiathos can give you that. Why not visit Kastro, a fortified pirate-proof capital. It sits dramatically upon a rocky headland above the north part of the coast. The old town has seen four of its old churches restored and you can also revel in the glorious views when you reach the top.

One of the most popular tourist attractions on the island is the 18th century Moni Evangelistrias. Situated above a 450 meter above sea level gorge, the monastery is surrounded by cypress and pine trees, giving it that ancient feel to it. During the War of Independence, it served as a place of refugees. It once had 70 monks here but now there are only two left to take care of the monastery and produce wine.

No trip would be complete to Skiathos without sampling the delicious food she has to offer. There are a number of different taverns and restaurants on the island that you can choose from, each dish guaranteed to make you wish never to leave!

Skiathos is a wonderful place to visit. She offers everything that you could ever wish for – friendly locals, shops, gorgeous beaches, historical and cultural attractions and sunshine. It is no wonder then that people flock to this island year after year.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Travel Destinations: Jeollabuk-do, South Korea


A trip to the south-western province of Jeollabuk-do is a great place for the traveller to explore. Known as the rice bowl of Korea, Jeollabuk-do conjures up images of unspoilt land and white egrets in terraced rice fields. In the more mountainous areas, there are sprawling national parks and hiking trails. In addition to this, Buddhist temples from every era scatter across the land, still home to the shaven-headed monks who practice Zen meditation.

Jeollabuk-do is famous for the Donghak rebellion, which was led by Chon Pongjun in 1893. This rebellion was mainly made up of peasants and slaves but who went on to seize Jeonju fortress and defeat King Gojong’s army. They demanded that the slaves be freed, the low born (chonmin) were to be treated better, the distribution of the land, punishment of corrupt officials and the abolition of taxes on salt and fish.

Jeonju is the first city travellers should go to as it is a good base to explore the rest of this beautiful province. Famous for being the birthplace of the Joseon dynasty and bibimbap (a dish comprising of rice, meat, egg, vegetables and a hot sauce), it is home to some of the most amazing hanok buildings.

There are many attractions to visit here. Take a trip to Jeonju Hanock Village – an urban historical village which can take all day to get around.

Try the Traditional Wine Museum. This museum is set in a beautiful old hanok where you can learn how to make your own soju, strong Korean liquor, and taste and buy other traditional drinks.

Kkotsuki Gongbang is a workshop where you can learn how to make traditional Korean paper dolls.

If you go to Deokjin Park, you can join Korean couples as they hire paddleboats to view lotus lilies. The best time to do this in July when the lotus lilies are at their very best.

Geumsansa and Moaksan Provincial Park is about 40 minutes away from Jeongju and a great location for hikers. The highlight of this attraction is Geumsansa, a temple dating to 599 CE. You can even stay here and will cost around W40,000 including meals. The Maitreya Hall was built in 1635 and conjures up the images of past eras. Inside the hall is a huge painting of the Mireuksa Buddha, the Buddha of the Future.

The main hiking route here runs past the temple, up Janggundae and then alongside the ridge. This will take you straight up to the peak. The trail is relatively easy and the entire hike is generally completed in around three hours.

To get here, take the 79 bus. This can be caught from Girinno, the main street in Jeonju. It is best to ask for Geumsansa.

Daedunsan Provincial Park is another magnificent park. It offers views of weather-beaten peaks, and although small, one of Korea’s fabulous mountainous locations.

If you are looking for a more challenging hiking trial, the climb to the peak will leave your heart pounding. It includes crossing a 50m long cable bridge, stretching between two rock pinnacles. You then climb a steep steel-cabled stairway. If this sounds too precarious for you, you can always take the cable car which will save you an hour of hiking!

Tired of parks? Take a trip to Gunsan, a major port and industrial city. This is the place to catch a ferry to Seonyudo, Eocheongdo or to China.

Seonyudo is a 43km ferry ride away from Gunsan and is a popular destination for those waiting to relax. The views here are indescribable in their beauty. To get the best out of the island, hire a bicycle to view the many fishing villages and the three islands linked by bridges.

The 1.6km beach is a good hotspot to head for, with its soft, golden sand with spectacular views. For those more adventurous, climb up the rocky Mangjubong to experience the views from the top of the many islands scattered about.

Jeollabuk-do is mostly known for its beautiful provincial parks and spectacular scenery – however, there are more enough Buddhist temples and towns and cities for those wanting to explore the more cultural side of this amazing province.